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I’ll be using Cascade 220, a classic worsted-weight wool yarn in a beautiful raspberry color (7803 Magenta). The multi-colored version you see in the pattern photos was made with Brown Sheep Nature Spun Sport, and the blue pair you see in the previous post was worked with a worsted weight wool from my stash. Silly old me can’t remember what it was, but they turned out great!
Of course, you can use any yarn weight between fingering (#1) and worsted (#4) that you choose. I’m partial to 100% wool, but synthetic and synthetic blends will work, also.
Needles and Notions
Choose a needle size that will give a firm fabric, but not one that is too stiff. You’ll probably want to use a size or two smaller than you would normally use for your chosen yarn. With the yarn I’m using, I would typically use a 5 mm (US 8) needle, but I’m using a 4.5 mm (US 7) for these gloves.
You’ll also need some waste yarn to use as stitch holders, as well as safety-pin style or locking stitch markers to use as stitch holders. For the waste yarn find some non-fuzzy cotton yarn or thread. It’s best if the waste yarn is a smaller weight than your glove yarn, and in a contrasting color. Don’t count on using long straight stitch holders; they won’t work in this project.
These gloves are knit in the round, using your choice of circular method. For the first couple of pairs I made, I started the fingers using double pointed needles then once I got to the Hand I started using the magic loop method. Use your favorite method, or mix them up.
Knitting the Fingers
Be sure you read through the pattern notes before you start knitting. There is important information there! In particular note that upper case labels refer to knitted parts (Ring Finger), while lower case labels are used for body parts (ring finger). When you are knitting, work the Fingers in the order given. I put a lot of thought into just where in the instructions things happen. But if, as you work, you have better ideas, please let me know in the comments below.
I am actually knitting along with you and making notes as I go. I’m making one glove all the way through first, then knitting the second one. Here are a few tips I thought of as I worked through the Fingers:
On the fingertips, the pattern calls for an M1 increase made by lifting the strand running between the needles and knitting into the back of that strand. That increase is pretty tricky at that point, so instead I just used a backwards-loop (e-wrap) cast-on style of M1 at the fingertips. If you want to use a different increase, let me know what works for you in the comments below.
Make sure you knit all the way to the base of the finger as the piece is worn. If you are knitting with negative ease, as I am, the Finger on the needles will be longer than it is when it is worn. You can see in the photo how the Ring Finger looks too long next to my finger.
However, when I try the knitting on, it fits just right, with the needles right snug down at the base of the finger.
If you prefer to knit gloves without fingertips, begin the Little Finger by casting on the number of stitches given at the end of Inc Rnd 1. Try it on as directed, and move on from there. Leave as much fingertip free as you choose, then knit the Finger the desired length. For subsequent fingers, you should be able to guesstimate the number of stitches to cast on, based on previous fingers.
Be sure to make notes of stitch counts on the worksheet provided. The second glove will go much faster with this information already calculated.
Following the instructions, knit all four fingers plus the thumb. Leave the yarn attached to the index finger as described, continue on to join the Fingers and start knitting the Hand.
If you have questions along the way, leave them in the comments below.