Crossover Slip Stitch allows you to cross your crochet hook over a chain. It keeps the chain looking smooth and right-facing, while allowing you to do some fancy stitch patterning.
The exact location of the slip stitch—that is, what the slip stitch is crossing—will depend on your pattern and the purpose of the crossover slip stitch.
Crochet a Decorative Chain
Let’s look at a little decorative chain as an example. The “pattern” for this chain is:
*Chain 8, crossover slip stitch in 4th chain from hook; repeat from * for desired length.
Scroll on down to see a video of this in action.
How to Crochet Crossover Slip Stitch
Step 1. Insert hook into designated stitch.
Step 2. Cross chain over working yarn. Alternately, you can cross the yarn ball under the work in progress.
Step 3. Yarn over, pull through everything on your hook to complete the slip stitch.
When to Use Crossover Slip Stitch
Crossover slip stitch bit of a hidden technique, in that I don’t know that it has a widely accepted name. It’s long been my argument that crochet suffers from a lack of nomenclature that would help us share knowledge easily. When I coined the term standing stitches, somehow people started “discovering” the technique. I hope that by naming this technique crossover slip stitch and using the technique in my patterns, more crocheters will learn about it and spread the word!
A crochet border provides a polished touch to your crocheted or knit project. No matter what type of crochet border design you choose, follow these 5 tips to set a solid foundation for beautiful crochet borders.
Tip #1: Start with a Base Row/Round
Start with a base row or round of single crochet in the same color as your main fabric. Using the same color makes the base row blend into the fabric and hides any uneven stitches. You can use a contrasting color on the next row, and the stitches will look nice and even.
Tip #2 Work Stitches Evenly Spaced
The base row stitches should be evenly spaced along each edge. This may be one stitch in every stitch across, or some other ratio, like 2 stitches out of every 3. Along a selvedge (side edge) the ratio may be one single crochet in each single crochet row-end, 2 single crochets in each double-crochet row-end, or some other ratio. You’ll have to play with those ratios to get them just right for your situation.
Tip #3 Put Your Hook Into Selvedge Stitches
It’s tempting to put your hook into the nice chain space or post stitch along the vertical edges. Resist the temptation! Instead, put the hook into the “meat” of the stitch: the actual chain stitch or post of the stitch.
Tip #4 Increase at Corners
If you are working all the way around around a square or rectangle, you’ll need to increase at the corners to ensure the edging stays flat. Put 3 single crochet stitches into each corner stitch. On later rounds, you’ll need to increase in pattern to allow the border to lie flat.
Tip #5 Assess Your Work
Stop from time to time and look critically at what you’ve done so far. Is it lying flat? Does it curve in or out, even a little bit? Does it ripple or draw in?
If it’s not entirely flat, rip it out and adjust your stitches until it does lie absolutely flat. Taking the time to set up your first row or round perfectly will the the main ingredient in the success of your crocheted border.
More Tips for Beautiful Crochet Borders
Crocheted edgings are one of my favorite topics! I’ve developed lots of ideas on how to enhance your projects with edgings both plan and fancy.
This year the Eckman family started a new family holiday tradition: crafting together. Over Christmas week, both my 20-something children were home for a visit at the same time.
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Daughter Meg had brought a variety of left-over yarns to crochet flowers for a Spring Wreath. Charles, visiting from far-away California, had in mind that he wanted to crochet a Dungeons & Dragons (D&D) dice bag. He asked if I’d teach him to crochet. How could I possibly refuse?
A Crochet Lesson
I grabbed a ball of Meg’s green yarn (conveniently sitting on the coffee table in front of us), a 5 mm crochet hook (conveniently within reach on my rolling cart), and demonstrated holding the hook and yarn.
A bag is a great first project. We covered the skills of slip knot, chain, slip stitch, chain-1 build-up chains, working into a ring, and single crochet in the first five minutes. Charles was a quick study, understanding the concepts right away. It was just a matter of his becoming comfortable manipulating the yarn and hook.
With the basic skills in place, we went back to our respective projects. I worked on my Crochet Skill-Builder Afghan (Crochet Along coming very soon!), Meg grew an entire garden of blooming flowers, and Charles worked out his own way of holding yarn and hook. And husband Bill? He joined in by helping untangle and re-wind a mess of yarn. It really was a family affair!
After a while, I demonstrated double crochet, so the bag-in-progress got a round of taller stitches here and there. When the bag was the right size, he added a drawstring chain in a contrasting color. By the end of the day, the bag was complete, and it was a rousing success!
Outfitting the Newbie
Of course, our next step was to go shopping in the Yarn Room (AKA “the attic”) for yarn for the next bag. Mountain Colors Weaver’s Wool Quarters in color Glacier Teal was the winner, with a bit of odd-ball teal of unknown origin for accent. This bag is a bit larger. It’s designated as a project bag, to hold not only a WIP (Work in Progress), but also the small collection of stitch markers, scissors, and other necessities that every crocheter needs.
Over several days, we worked on various projects. Instead of staring at our individual device screens, we worked with nice yarn, created beautiful things and (gasp!) talked to one another.
We now have a Crochet Convert. Between stitching sessions, Charles polled members of his D&D campaign to ask what two colors would best represent their characters. He headed back to California with enough yarn to make custom dice bags for all the players in the campaign, along with hooks in varying sizes, and a copy of The Crochet Answer Book. (I’m assuming that none of them read this blog, so a spoiler alert wasn’t necessary there.)
Planning for Next Year
Crocheting together was a lovely way to spend time together as a family. I think we’ve crafted a new holiday tradition! This year it was crochet. I wonder what we’ll do next year?
Next week, I’ll share the pattern for the Crochet Bag for Beginners (AKA D&D Dice Bag).
When a pattern calls for working a front post double crochet or a back post double crochet, what do you do? Working around the post of the stitch can be quite easy, but you have to bend your brain a bit at first to understand the concept. Read the instructions below for how to work front and back post double crochet, then scroll down for a video tutorial.
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Identify the Posts
Before you can work a post stitch, you need to know what a “post” is. A post is the vertical part of a stitch. Double crochet is a tall-ish stitch, which makes the double crochet post easy to recognize.
For both front post and back post double crochet, use a chain-2 turning chain at the beginning of a row and a half double crochet in the last stitch of the row.
Front Post Double Crochet
To work a front post double crochet (FPdc or fpdc), yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice.
FPdc is simply a double crochet worked by inserting your hook around the post from front to back to front, rather than into the top two loops of a stitch as you normally would.
A front post stitch sits up in front of the fabric, creating a raised stitch that “pops” toward you.
Back Post Double Crochet
To work a back post double crochet (BPdc or bpdc), yarn over, insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice.
BPdc is simply a double crochet worked by inserting your hook around the post from back to front to back, rather than into the top two loops of a stitch as you normally would.
A back post stitch recedes behind the fabric, creating a stitch that hides behind the others, away from you. Keep this in mind, because when you turn the work, that back post double crochet that was hiding on the first row is now sitting up in front of the fabric and appears as a front post stitch.
Double Crochet Rib
To make double crochet rib, work one front post double crochet and one back post double crochet, alternating across the row. On the following row, work front post double crochet around the front post stitches and back post double crochet around the back post stitches. After a few rows, you’ll see a vertically-textured pattern appear.
Check out the video to see these stitches in action.
Edc (extended double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop on hook, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) 2 times.
Partial Tower St: Complete 1 edc, dc into base of edc as follows: yarn over, insert hook under both strands at base of edc, yarn over and pull up a loop, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) 2 times.
Tower St: Complete 1 edc, 2 dcs in base of previous edc as follows: *yarn over, insert hook under both strands at base of edc, yarn over hook and pull up a loop, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) 2 times; rep from * once more.
With A, ch 4, join with slip st to form a ring OR begin with an adjustable ring/Magic Ring..
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of ch-3—12 dc. Fasten off.
Rnd 2: Join B in any space between 2 dcs, ch 3, Tower st in same space, *sk 2 dc, 2 Tower sts in space between next 2 dc; rep from * 2 more times, sk 3 dc, partial Tower st in beginning space, join with sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off.
Rnd 3: Join C in corner space between 2 Tower sts, ch 3, Tower st in same space, *Tower st in space between next 2 Tower sts, 2 Tower sts in space between next 2 Tower sts; rep from * 2 more times, Tower st in space between next 2 Tower sts, partial Tower st in beginning space, join with slip st to top of ch-3. Fasten off.
Rnd 4: Join A in corner space between 2 Tower sts, ch 3, Tower st in same space, *(Tower st in space between next 2 Tower sts) 2 times, 2 Tower sts in space between next 2 Tower sts; rep from * around, ending last rep partial Tower st in beginning space, join with slip st to top of ch-3. Fasten off.
Rnd 5: Join B in corner space between 2 Tower sts, ch 3, Tower st in same sp, *(Tower st in space between next 2 Tower sts) 3 times, 2 Tower sts in space between next 2 Tower sts; rep from * around, ending last rep partial Tower st in beginning space, join with slip st to top of ch-3. Fasten off.