Whether you use them as dishcloths or as washcloths, knitted squares are a useful and popular project for knitters of all skill levels. Who doesn’t love a beautiful, soft hand-knit cloth to pamper their face, or a cute and sturdy cloth for that thankless chore that is kitchen cleanup?
This collection of six knitted washcloths (or dishcloths) helps you brush up on your knitting skills. Links to video tutorials help you with unfamiliar techniques.
With these patterns, knitting garter stitch was never so rewarding! Relax into the meditative rhythm of all-over knit stitches and enjoy the beauty of color.
Beginning knitters will be comfortable knitting stripes, then progress to knitting on the bias. After that, step up to the joy that is a mitered square. Garter stitch intarsia techniques take you from beginning to intermediate skills in easy steps. There’s no purling needed!
This post contains affiliate links, which help support me but don’t cost you anything extra. Many thanks to Trailhead Yarns, who provided the yarn for this project.
The free pattern for the easiest cloth, Team Colors, is presented below. Buy a printable downloadable pdf of all six patterns, and knit your cares away.
The Yarn
Use a cotton or cotton-blend fine- or light-weight yarn to make these soft and absorbent projects. The pattern calls for five colors, so this is a perfect time to try out a colorful pack of mini skeins!
For the cloths pictured I used Trailhead Yarns Appalachian Trail Yarn Crew mini-skeins. Appalachian Trail is 65% cotton, 35% nylon. I used about 108 yds [99 m] each of five colors to complete all six washcloths.
The finished size will vary based on the yarn and needles you use, and your particular gauge. The washcloths shown measure about 6 3/4″ [17 cm] square.
Size is not crucial in this project, but if you substitute yarns, choose a needle size that results in a fabric that is not too dense and not too loose.
Materials
Fine-weight yarn: approximately 40 yds [36.5 m] each of two colors (Color A & Color B) for the Team Colors cloth below.
US size 2 [3 mm] knitting needles or size to obtain appropriate gauge
Gauge
30 sts and 22 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in garter stitch in fine-weight yarn
See note above about gauge.
Instructions
Team Colors
With Color A, long-tail cast on 50 stitches.
Rows 1-23: Knit. You have 12 garter stitch ridges. Cut A.
Rows 24-75: WIth Color B, knit. You have 26 garter stitch ridges in B, Cut B.
Rows 76-99: With Color A, knit. You have 12 garter stitch ridges in A.
You enjoy creating new designs instead of relying on other people’s patterns. Your friends want to make the items you’re designing. How do you become a crochet designer?
There’s a lot to learn, but you’ve got to start somewhere. Here are my ten best tips for becoming a crochet designer.
This post contains affiliate links.
Crochet, crochet, crochet
Crochet a lot. Crochet many different types of things: hats, scarfs, afghans, pillows, amigurumi, shawls and sweaters. Crochet items where gauge matters so that you understand how important gauge is. Crochet sweaters for women, for men, and for children so that you understand ease and fit.
Pay attention to the techniques you use and try to understand the “why” behind what you are doing. You may learn that you don’t enjoy crocheting a specific type of project or with a certain type of yarn. Or you may find new favorites!
The more you crochet and the more varied your projects are, the faster you will learn the designer skills.
Learn from Others
Study what other crochet designers have done, and see what techniques they use.
As you learn new techniques, make sure you’re learning from reputable sources. Blog posts and videos made years ago may have a lot of views. This makes them show up at the top of a list when you do a search. And they may be at the top of the list because they are useful and answer your questions.
Yet not every post or video you’ll see will be accurate. It may be that things have changed recently and new terminology has come into fashion. There may be more than one “right” way of doing something. The information given may not cover the whole story.
Take time to look at many sources for information. Learning from books, blogs, and videos will increase your knowledge. Books like Design Your Own Crochet Projects by Sara Delaney can speed you on your way.
Take classes to up your skill level. Many in-person classes are on hold right now, but they are an excellent way to build your skills. Bloggers and teachers who teach at national shows such as the CGOA’s Chain Link or Stitches events are a good place to start.
And of course, there are thousands of YouTube videos to choose from. Subscribe to my YouTube channel for lots of crochet instruction.
Swatch, Swatch, Swatch
Swatching is the process of making a small sample of fabric using the yarn, hook, and stitch pattern(s) you’ll use in a project.
Most people think of swatching as a chore they have to do to match a pattern gauge. But swatching is much more than that! It’s a crucial tool for designers.
Swatching allows you to try out ideas before you commit to making an entire project. If you have a problem with the yarn or hook, or don’t like the stitch pattern, it’s better to find that out early on. Why wait until the middle of the project to find out you don’t like it?
Swatching allows you to get a feel for the fabric you are making. You can decide if that fabric behaves the way you want it to for your project. Play with combinations of hook, yarn and stitch pattern to get the exact fabric you want.
Crocheting is forgiving of experimentation, and that’s what swatching is all about. And yes, a good swatch also gives you important information about gauge.
While we are on the topic of experimenting, grab a stitch dictionary or three and try out different stitch patterns. Add stitch patterns to your design toolbox!
Try out a variety of patterns, hooks, yarns, and projects. This kind of play (it’s called swatching!) allows your creative juices to start flowing.
Here are some great places to start with stitch dictionaries:
Every Which Way Crochet Borders
Indepensable Stitch Collection
Japanese Craft Book - Crochet Motif Edging 300 Patterns
Japanese Craft Book 300 Crochet Patterns
The Big Book of Crochet Stitches
The Crochet Stitch Bible
Crochet Stitch Dictionary
The Complete Book of Crochet Stitch Designs
Crochet Stitches Visual Encyclopedia
Continuous Crochet Motif 60
Understand the Math
Designing for crochet is all about math. You are going to be using arithmetic in all your crochet designs, whether you realize it or not.
Knowing how gauge factors into everything is a start, but there is a lot more to know. You will save huge amounts of time, and lots of trial and error, if you take the time to learn the math behind the crochet.
Understanding the math ensures that your projects will turn out to be the size and proportions you intend. Don’t be scared! We are talking 4th-grade level calculations, and calculators are allowed! Learn more in my Math for Crocheters class.
Prepare a Professional Pattern
Have you ever felt discouraged trying to read a crochet pattern? An incomplete or poorly written pattern can make you throw your hook in the air with frustration!
Crocheters are more likely to trust you and want to make your patterns if they are easy to read and understand. Publishers and editors love designers who can compose well-written patterns.
Save yourself time and effort by coming up with a designing system. Develop your idea, make the project, and write the pattern in one integrated, seamless workflow.
In my online course Crochet Pattern Writing Workshop, you’ll start to create this type of workflow. You’ll develop a style guide so your patterns are consistently formatted. You’ll learn to write clear instructions. Improve the overall quality of your patterns for a more professional presentation.
Use a Tech Editor
A technical editor, or tech editor, checks your pattern between when you design it and when you publish it. They ensure that all of your math checks out and that you haven’t left out crucial instructions. A tech editor is a crucial step in presenting accurate, well-written patterns.
Think about how you’ll be taking photos. Don’t just take a picture of your project on the kitchen table with mess in the background. Use natural light whenever possible, and the best camera you have available. (Maybe you need to borrow a family member’s phone!)
Putting other items in the picture with the project to style it makes the photo more interesting and memorable, and encourages people to click on your pattern.
Many crocheters expect patterns to come as downloadable and printable PDFs, not as pamphlets from their local stores. Make sure that those who find your patterns are able to find you and any other patterns you may have. Include your email address or website on each pattern.
Promote Your Patterns on Social Media
Let your friends and family know about your pattern, and encourage them to share it. Your cousin who doesn’t crochet may have a best friend who is looking for their next pattern.
Use those beautifully-styled photos you took! Broadcast your news on all the channels you can think of: Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter. Consider making a promotional video for YouTube or other video platforms. Tell the world about your awesome design!
Basic crochet skills are all it takes to make these Easy Little Baskets. Looking for a good project for a new crocheter? This is it!
Using just single crochet and small amounts of yarn, you’ll be soon be turning these out by the dozen! They’ll hold your crochet hooks, pencils, paperclips, glasses, keys, or tiny treasures.
Round, Oval, and Square-to-Round shapes can be crocheted with any yarn. It’s a great way to use up odds and ends of yarn you have on hand!
This post contains affiliate links, which don’t cost you anything, but may provide a small income to me.
Instructions for the baskets are given below. You may also purchase a downloadable ad-free pdf of the pattern which includes stitch diagrams for all three baskets.
The Yarn
You can use any medium-weight yarn you have on hand, in any colors you like. Depending on the yarn you use, you’ll be able to get several baskets out of a single skein. Use a smaller hook than you normally would with your chosen yarn, as you want to create a stiff fabric.
For the baskets pictured I used Universal Yarn Yashi, a 100% raffia tape. The raffia fiber is stiffer than regular yarn, but it adds a unique look to the crochet.
Each ball of Yashi has 1.41 oz [40 g], 99 yd [90 m]. I used 1 ball each #106 Hot Green, # 104 Super Pink and #105 Bright Aqua.
Finished Dimensions
Round: 3″ [ 7.5 cm] diameter x 3½” [9 cm] high Oval: 6″ [15 cm] long x 3¼” [8 cm] wide x 3″ [ 7.5 cm] high Square-to-Round: 3¾” [9.5 cm] square x 4½ ” [11.5 cm] high
The finished size will vary based on the yarn and hooks you use. Size is not important in this project.
Materials
Worsted Weight Yarn: approximately 200 yds total for all 3 baskets.
US size I-9 [5.5 mm] crochet hook for raffia fiber US size G [4.25 mm] or H-8 [5 mm] crochet hook for acrylic or wool yarn.
Stitch marker
It’s easy crochet: you’ll use single crochet, double crochet and slip stitch.. There are no seams at all; it’s entirely one piece. Crocheters just beyond the beginner level should find this bag within their ability.
Gauge
12 sc and 16 rnds = 4″ [10 cm] with 5.5 mm hook and raffia yarn 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4″ [10 cm] with 5 mm hook and medium-weight yarn
Gauge is not crucial in this project. However, you should use a hook size that results in a slightly stiff fabric so that the basket holds its shape.
Pattern Notes
This pattern uses American crochet terminology.
Color designations are made as MC (main color) and Contrasting Color (CC) or Contrasting
Color 1 (CC1) and Contrasting Color 2 (CC2), because it really doesn’t matter which colors you use. Use the photos as a guide if you want to copy the colorways shown.
Baskets are worked in unjoined rounds. Leave at least a 4″ [10 cm] tail of yarn in order to have enough yarn to weave in ends securely.
Abbreviations
CC, CC1, CC2: contrasting color, contrasting color 1, contrasting color 2 ch: chain MC: main color pm: place marker rep: repeat rnd(s): round(s) RS: right side sc: single crochet sc2tog (single crochet 2 together): [insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop] 2 times, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook st(s): stitch(es)
Round Basket
With MC, ch 4, join with slip st to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 6 sc in ring—6 sc. Pm in first st to indicate beginning of rnd and move marker up as you work each rnd.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in each st around—12 sc.
Rnd 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around—18 sc.
Rnd 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] around—24 sc.
Rnd 5: Sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around—30 sc.
Rnd 6: Sc in back loop only of each st around—30 sc.
Rnds 7-16: Sc in each st around, changing to CC on last st of Rnd 16. Cut MC.
Rnds 17-18: With CC, sc in each st around.
Slip st in next st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Oval Basket
Ch 9. Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch; continuing across the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 6 ch, 2 sc in last ch; do not join—18 sc. Pm in first st to indicate beginning of rnd and move marker up as you work each rnd.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc—24 sc.
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 2 times—30 sc.
Rnd 4: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sc] 2 times—36 sc.
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 2 times—42 sc.
Rnd 6: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sc] 2 times—48 sc.
Rnd 7: Sc in back loop of each sc around—48 sc.
Rnds 8-16: Sc in each st around, changing to CC on last st of Rnd 16. Cut MC.
Rnds 17-18: With CC, sc in each st around.
Slip st in next st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Square-to-Round Basket
With MC, ch 4, join with slip st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 8 sc in ring; do not join—12 sc. Pm in first st to indicate beginning of rnd and move marker up as you work each rnd.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—16 sc.
Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—24 sc.
Rnd 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—32 sc.
Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 7 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—40 sc.
Rnd 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 9 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—48 sc.
Rnd 7: Sc in back loop only of each st around—48 sc.
Rnds 8-15: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 16: [Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc] around—44 sc.
Rnds 17-19: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 20: [Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc] around—40 sc.
Rnd 21: Sc in each sc to last st; on last st, change to CC1. Cut MC.
Rnd 22: With CC1, sc in each sc around.
Rnd 23: Sc in each sc to last st; on last st, change to CC2. Cut CC1.
Put a little spring in your step with Primavera Lace Socks. This is a quick, easy knit that will go with all your spring outfits. They are lacy enough to be cool on those warm spring days yet warm enough for that occasional spring chill.
This post contains affiliate links, which may provide a small income to me if you buy something by clicking on a link on this site. Affiliate links do not cost you anything extra.
About the Yarn
You can use any sock-weight yarn for these socks. I’ve knit them twice, with different yarns, and had great results with each.
I knit the light green socks you see above with Cascade Yarns Heritage (75% merino superwash/ 25% nylon, 3.5 oz [100 g], 437 yd [399 m]). I used 1 skein #5629 Citron and had plenty of yarn left over.
For the teal sock pictured above, I used KnitPicks Stroll Solids (75% fine superwash merino wool/ 25% nylon, 1.75 oz [50g], 231 yds [211 m]). I used 2 balls #28181 Patina for the pair. Again, with plenty of yarn left over.
About the Pattern and Construction
These are classic cuff-down socks with a heel flap and gusset. Instructions are given for both double-pointed needles and the Magic Loop method, but of course you can adapt that to the two-circular method if that is your preference.
These socks work up beautifully, using either text or chart instructions for the lace rib pattern. The pattern is easily memorized for faster knitting, and there is a video tutorial for the Magic Loop method.
Happy Knitting!
Want to learn to knit socks using the Magic Loop method? Check out my Twisted Ribs Socks class on Creativebug.
Looking for more sock patterns? Check out my Rebecca Socks.
Tired of that messy plastic grass in your Spring decorations? Wish you had some eco-friendly faux grass that you can use season after season? Crochet your own!
This crocheted “grass” circle can be made any size, with any yarn you have on hand. Use it to line an Easter basket or as a Spring centerpiece with your favorite flowers!
The loop stitch technique is based on single crochet. Watch the video for a tutorial on How to Crochet Loop Stitch (also known as Fur Stitch). I’ll show you three different variations, so you can choose.
This post contains affiliate links.
About the Yarn
Use any yarn you choose, with a hook in an appropriate size for your yarn. The Grass Circle pictured used one ball of Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice color 172 Kelly Green (100% acrylic, 3.5 oz [100 g], 170 yd [156 m]) .
About the Construction
The mat is worked in the round from the center out in continuous, un-joined rounds. Every other round is worked using the loop stitch single crochet technique.
Instructions for the Grass Circle are given below. A print-friendly, ad-free version includes instructions and charts.
Grass Circle Mat Pattern
Size & Finished Dimensions
Can be made to any size. The sample pictured measures 14″ [35.5 cm] diameter.
Materials
Worsted weight yarn (or any size yarn desired), approximately 170 yd [156 m] to make a 14″ diameter circle
Size I-9 [5.5 mm] crochet hook, or size needed to create a nice fabric for your yarn
Stitch marker
Gauge
Rnds 1-7= 4″ [ 10 cm]
Gauge is not crucial in this pattern.
Abbreviations & Special Stitches
ch: chain Lsc (Loop single crochet): Hold working yarn so that it is coming from back to front over left index finger (right index finger for left-handed crocheters). Hold this finger approximately 1″ [2.5 cm] from the hook. Insert hook into next stitch, then move the hook clockwise (counterclockwise for left-handed crocheters) so that it comes over the front of the working yarn; yarn over with the strand of yarn that is coming from the back of the index finger; keeping index finger in place, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook to complete a single crochet. Remove index finger from loop. rep: repeat rnd(s): round(s) sc: single crochet st(s): stitch(es)
Pattern Notes
Do not join at end of rounds.
Instructions
Rnd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 6 sc in ring—6 sts. Place marker in first st to indicate beginning of rnd and move marker up as you work each rnd.
Rnd 2: 2 Lsc in first st, 2 Lsc in each st around—12
sts.
Rnd 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next
st, 2 sc in next st] around—18 sts.
Rnd 4: 2 Lsc in first st, Lsc in next 2 sts, [2 Lsc
in next st, Lsc in next 2 sts] around—24 sts.
Rnd 5: Sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next
st, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around—30 sts.
Rnd 6: 2 Lsc in first st, Lsc in next 4 sts, [2 Lsc
in next st, Lsc in next 4 sts] around—36 sts.
Rnd 7: Sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next
st, [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] around—42 sts
Rnd 8: 2 Lsc in first st, Lsc in next 6 sts, [2 Lsc
in next st, Lsc in next 6 sts] around—48 sts.
Rnd 9: Sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next
st, [sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] around—54 sts.
Continue in this manner to increase 6 stitches every round until piece is as large as desired, ending with an odd-numbered round. Weave in ends.
For more detailed instructions for Rounds 1-23, plus a stitch chart, buy the ad-free printable pattern.
What will you use your “grass” for? Share photos on my Instagram feed, using #edieeckman!
This is the story of my first knitting project. It’s a story that spans 50 years. It’s about yarn and memories and connections that come full circle. And it includes a free beginner pattern. This striped garter-stitch scarf is a good beginner project for novices who have the patience to knit a whole scarf. Don’t want to knit so much? Make it a coaster or cowl instead.
This post contains affiliate links.
In the Beginning
When I was about six, one of my favorite books was A Gift from the Lonely Doll, by Dare Wright. In the story, The Lonely Doll —whose name is Edith—knits a scarf for her dad, Mr. Bear. She knits diligently at every possible opportunity and (spoiler alert) the scarf ends up too long. It’s worth reading the book for all the adorable details.
Like my doll heroine, I wanted to knit a striped scarf for my father’s Christmas present. The scarf must be red and black, the team colors of his beloved University of Georgia Bulldogs.
My First Knitting Project
My maternal grandmother lived with us and was happy to teach me to knit. We started with a skein of black Germantown worsted wool, some leftover bits of red Germantown, and a pair of straight needles. She showed me how to cast on—the German twisted cast on, no less!—and how to do the knit stitch.
I knit and knit. The stitch count changed from row to row, but that didn’t matter to me.
The subtle shaping was due to inadvertently added stitches. Surely a design element, right?
I knit and knit and knit. I learned to change colors, although not always on the correct side.
I clearly didn’t have an idea of “right side” and “wrong side”.
I knit and knit and knit. The scarf grew slowly. Yarnover holes and incomplete stitches magically disappeared overnight. It’s the only time in my life that the Knitting Fairy has corrected my knitting.
I knit and knit and knit and knit and knit. Now it was starting to look like a scarf. I tried it on frequently to see if it was long enough.
Is it long enough yet?
I knit and knit and knit and knit and knit and knit . Nana kept urging me to knit a few more rows, but I was on deadline and anxious to finish on time. (Sound familiar?)
Just in time for Christmas, the scarf was long enough. Because the edges were so wobbly, Nana single crocheted around the whole thing to tidy it up. We wrapped it up in anticipation of the big reveal the next day.
On Christmas morning, Daddy opened the package. He made all the appropriate noises about how beautiful the scarf was, and how hard I must have worked to make such a special gift. Apparently it was the best gift ever!
I never saw him wear it, and I eventually forgot about it.
About 25 Years Later
Visiting my parents’ house, I caught a glance of red and black rolled up in the back of a drawer. It was my first scarf! Daddy had saved it all those years!
But that photo doesn’t really do it justice. Let me help you understand the scale of this scarf.
It is 4″ wide x 22.5″ long. Despite all my efforts, and even trying it on my skinny six-year-old neck, it was way too small to be worn by an adult male! Furthermore, we lived in Georgia where scarves aren’t even needed. The scarf came home with me, to remind me how much my technique had improved.
About 25 Years Later
As I wandered the aisles of a trade show, my eye caught a familiar sight: Germantown yarn from Kelbourne Woolens. I’m pretty sure I squeed out loud. I may have jumped up and down a little bit.
About Germantown Yarn
For that first scarf, and for many projects after that, Brunswick Germantown Worsted was my go-to yarn.
Knitters who have been around for a long while will remember this ubiquitous yarn. There weren’t nearly as many yarns available as there are now, but Germantown was a classic worsted weight standby that came in many colors.
When Kelbourne Woolens owner Courtney Kelly heard the story of my first scarf and what Germantown meant to me, she immediately suggested that I make another scarf, and provided the yarn for me to knit it.
My First Scarf Knitting Pattern
So here, fifty years after the original scarf, is the pattern for My First Scarf. This version is meant to be easy enough for new knitters to knit, and long enough and warm enough to actually be worn by an adult.
Presented in Georgia Bulldog red and black, of course. Note that black is not the best choice for beginners; feel free to use different, lighter colors for easier visibility.
The free pattern is below; you also can purchase a printer-friendly pdf.
Want to knit it in Germantown yarn? You’ll get 10% off the price if you use code EDIEECKMAN at checkout here.
Materials
Kelbourne Woolens Germantown (100% North American wool, 220 yds/201 m, 100 g), 1 skein each #005 Black (A) and #625 Scarlet (B), or colors of your choice.
US size 8 (5 mm) knitting needles or size to obtain correct gauge
Stitch marker or safety pin
Finished Dimensions
3.75″ (9.5 cm) wide x 61″ (155 cm) long
Gauge
20 sts and 39 rows = 4” (10 cm) in garter stitch (knit every row) Gauge is not crucial in this pattern, but for best results match the gauge of the pattern. Watch How to Measure Gauge in Knitted Garter Stitch.
Pattern Note
Leave a 4-5″ [10-13 cm] tail of yarn each time you change yarns so that you’ll have enough yarn to securely weave in the tails. Each time you change yarn colors, the yarn tails should be on the rightmost edge of the scarf.
Turn the work and place a marker on the right side to help you keep track of the right and wrong sides.
Rows 2-15: Knit.
At this point you have a total of 8 garter ridges and you have ended by knitting a wrong side row.
Cut A.
Rows 16-27: With B, knit. End by knitting a wrong side row. You have 6 garter ridges of B.
Continue working alternate stripes of 8 garter ridges (16 rows) in A and 6 garter ridges (12 rows) in B, until you have 20 stripes in color B. End by knitting a wrong side row.
Last stripe: With A, knit 8 garter ridges (16 rows). End by knitting a wrong side row. Bind off on a right side row.
Weave in all ends. Block.
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