technique Archives | Edie Eckman

July 23, 2020July 23, 2020

Free Knitting Pattern: Slip Stitch Pillow

A chunky knit pillow with a minimalist modern look! The knitting pattern is free, and the Slip Stitch Pillow will look fantastic on your sofa. It makes a great gift for all home decor styles.

Slip stitch ribs on a background of garter stitch makes for super easy knitting. Even novice knitters can master this stitch pattern.

photo of pillow and basket of yarn on sofa

The free knitting pattern and video tutorial is below. You can also purchase a printable ad-free pdf.

Thanks to Lion Brand Yarn and Fairfield Products for providing the materials for this project. This post contains affiliate links, which may provide a small income to me, but don’t cost you anything extra.

About the Materials

The pillow takes about 212 yards [194 m] of super bulky yarn. The pillow pictured is knit with two balls of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (80% acrylic, 20% wool) in color 099 Fisherman. I used US size 13 [9 mm] knitting needles to get gauge.

You’ll need a 14″ [35.5 cm] square pillow form. I used Fairfield Products Poly-fil Premier Ultra Plus Pillow Insert.

Fairfield Products Poly-fil Premier ultra plush pillow insert

Free Pattern: Slip Stitch Pillow

Finished Dimensions

14″ [35.5 cm] square

Materials

Super-bulky weight yarn: approximately 212 yds [27 m]. Sample used Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (80% acrylic, 20% wool, 6 oz [170 g], 106 yd [97 m]), 2 balls 099 Fisherman

US size 13 [9 mm] knitting needles or size to obtain correct gauge

Size M/N [9 mm] crochet hook for finishing (optional)

14″ [35.5 cm] square pillow form

Tapestry needle

Gauge

11 sts and 20 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in Slip Stitch Pattern
To save time, take time to check gauge.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
rep: repeat
RS: right side
sl: slip
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: wrong side
wyib: with yarn in back

Slip Stitch Pattern

Multiple of 4 + 3
Set-Up Row (WS): K3, [p1, k3] across.
Row 1 (RS): K3, [sl 1 purlwise wyib, k3] across.
Row 2: K3, [p1, k3] across.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

Instructions

(Make 2)
Long tail cast on 35 sts.

Work in Slip Stitch Pattern until piece measures 13″ [33 cm] from beginning, ending with a WS row. Bind off knitwise.

Weave in ends.

Finishing

Crochet seam (optional): Holding front and back pieces with WS together, single crochet evenly through both layers around to seam three sides. Insert pillow form before closing fourth side. Weave in ends.

If you prefer, sew front and back together on three sides; insert pillow form before finishing final seam.

Weave in ends.

https://youtu.be/q3GQ80Fr3o4

More Easy Knitting Projects

Looking for more free and easy knitting patterns? Check these out:

Easy Quick-Knit One-Skein Tea Cozy on red teapot

June 29, 2020June 28, 2020

Turk Mountain Hat Knitting Pattern

Wear this hat on your mountain hikes or your in-town errands. The Turk Mountain Hat knitting pattern is sized for adults. Unisex styling, classic yarn and a traditional shape combine for a super grab-and-go project.

The stitch pattern, with an unusual 1/1/1 cable, is a fun twist on more familiar cables. And it looks great on the reverse side too, so you can wear the hat inside out if you prefer!

Where is Turk Mountain?

Turk Mountain is in the Shenandoah National Park in Virginia, not too far from where I live. The Turk Mountain Trail is a popular hiking trail. I like to name designs for interesting and beautiful places. This one just happens to be close to home!

This post contains affiliate links, which may provide a small income to me if you buy something by clicking on a link on this site. Affiliate links do not cost you anything extra.

About the Yarn

The Turk Mountain Hat is well-matched for any worsted-weight (medium-weight) yarn. A solid color will show off the unusual stitch pattern. It takes about 130 yards [119 meters].

I knit the sample with Kraemer Yarns Naturally Nazareth (100% wool, 200 yd [183 m], 3.5 oz [100 g], 1 skein #3121 Melon. I had lots of yarn left over; maybe enough for a child-size hat.

Kraemer Yarn Naturally Nazareth in color pumpkin — Kraemer Naturally Nazareth yarn in color Pumpkin

Test knitters used a variety of yarns, including Lion Brand Heartland, Rowan Pure Wool Worsted, Cascade 220, Knitpicks Swish Worsted Brights, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Plymouth Encore, and Yoth Father.

About the Pattern

Knit the hat in the round, beginning with a 16″ [40 cm] circular needle, then use double-pointed needles to shape the crown. Of course, you can use the Magic Loop method to work in the round if you prefer. I used US size 8 [5 mm] to get gauge.

The Coins Stitch Pattern has an unusual 1/1/1 Center Cross Cable that requires two cable needles. Instructions for the stitch pattern are offered as both text and chart, and there are video tutorials to help with the cable and decreasing techniques. The cable makes this best for skill levels from advanced beginner through experienced.

Turk Mountain Hat by Edie Eckman reverse side of fabric — The reverse side looks good, too!

Adventurous knitters may want to practice doing the 1/1/1 Center Cross Cable without a cable needle or with only one cable needle. It can be done, although some knitters found it more trouble than it’s worth and went back to using two cable needles.

The pattern is sold as an interactive downloadable pdf.
Happy Knitting!

Looking for more hat patterns?

Potrero Hill Hat Knitting Pattern by Edie Eckman

Norwegian Dream Hat Knitting Pattern by Edie Eckman

Molly Hat Knitting Pattern by Edie Eckmandie Eckman

Hearts All Around Hats Knitting Pattern by Edie Eckman

Charlotte Hat knitting pattern by Edie Eckman

June 11, 2020June 18, 2020

Tips for Learning in an Online Knitting or Crochet Class

Knitting classes and crochet classes are almost the definition of “hands-on”. But now that we can’t be together physically, what’s it like to take a knitting or crochet class virtually?

Is it even possible to learn a new skill in these circumstances? The answer is an emphatic yes! Even in a distanced world, you can make the most of your next virtual knitting or crochet class.

This post contains affiliate links which may provide a small income to me if you buy something, but they won’t cost you anything extra.

You may already be familiar with video learning from YouTube or platforms like Creativebug and the (former) Bluprint/Craftsy. You may have found that those one-way classes are perfect for you, and that you don’t need live interaction with your instructor.

But if you want more, try out virtual classes with a live teacher. You’ll find more and more of these online as teachers pivot from teaching at large in-person events to virtual classrooms. Learn how with these best tips for learning in an online knitting or crochet class.

Tip #1 Use reliable internet that supports streaming

It’s no fun when your screen locks up or the little “buffering” wheel goes round and round. Make sure others in your household are not hogging shared bandwidth. Have them do something else while you are in class.

Can you go to a place that has a better connection? Most public libraries have public internet, and even if the library is not open, you may be able to connect from a parking lot or sitting area just outside the library.

Try to let the teacher know ahead of time if you know that your internet is unreliable and you might get kicked off at any moment. They might have to let you back into class at some point, and a heads-up on that is helpful. Find out if the class is being recorded and if it will be available afterward in case you can’t access it during class time.

You may want to leave your camera off as much as possible to help with streaming. Turn it back on when/if you need to show yourself or your work.

If you have a choice of devices, you’ll want the one with the most screen real estate.

Tip #2 - two large iMac monitors — Photo by **Tranmautritam** from **Pexels**

You’ll need to be able to see the instructor’s hands on close-up shots. You’ll want to be able to see their face, and maybe those of your fellow students. It’s also helpful to see chat comments and questions in a sidebar (on some platforms).

Don’t count on using your phone as your main screen. You won’t be able to see well enough, and some of the teaching platforms don’t have as many features available on the mobile versions.

Tip #3 Know how to use the hardware and software

Well before class starts, do a dry run with your equipment.

Download the app you’ll be using. If you already have the app, check for updates. Sometimes updates take a while, so allow time to install them.

Make sure your speaker or headphones/earbuds work with your device. Check that your microphone is working and you have allowed the app to access it. If you don’t know how to do these things, ask for help from a family member or friend. Or Google it.

Practice using the platform. Most of the platforms have a free version. Set up a time to meet with a friend so you can become familiar with the features and quirks of the program.

At some point, you may need to show your work to your teacher. Especially if you are having trouble executing a technique, it will be important for the teacher to see your hands.

Think about how you can do this. Is there a way for you to set the camera above your hands, shooting down (at least temporarily)? Can you hold your hands up to the camera (which presents the reverse side of the work to the viewer)? Can you move the camera to your lap, so the teacher can see the work from your perspective?

Sit in a comfortable seat, with the screen on a table or stand where you can see it easily. Remember that you’ll need your hands to crochet or knit! Keep your lap free for your work.

If it’s an interactive class, where the instructor and other students need to see you, try to set the camera angle so that it gets your full face. You don’t want them looking up your nostrils or just at your forehead!

Make sure you have adequate task lighting, with the light in front of you. Turn off lamps and close the blinds behind you to prevent harsh backlighting which throws your face into shadow.

Place any class supplies within reach, including notions like scissors and yarn needles. Keep some extra yarn handy, as well. You don’t want to have to step away to look for a missing notion, and you won’t have a fellow student next to you to let you borrow their scissors!

Think about the things you might want to have with you in a regular in-person class: water bottle, pencil, notebook. Have those things handy, as well.

Turn off the TV. Put your cell phone in another room, or turn off the ringer. Try to be in a room by yourself, or at least have the kids and pets in another room. Don’t be doing laundry or other tasks while in class.

mother with laptop and baby on her lap — Photo by **Tatiana Syrikova** from **Pexels**

You’ve probably paid for the class, so get your money’s worth by concentrating on the class just as you would if you were attending in person.

Disappointing advice, I know. You don’t have to wear hard pants, but do make sure you are dressed. You may be on video, and even if you think only your upper half will show it’s safer to have all your clothes on!

woman wearing jeans — Photo by **Heitor Verdi** from **Pexels**

Some people suggest that wearing “real” clothes will signal to your body that it’s time to work (or learn), so there’s that, too.

There are always unexpected background sounds in any meeting. Sirens, lawn mowers, barking dogs, shouting children, people talking in the next room, someone asking what’s for dinner. Multiply this by the number of students in the class, and it can get noisy fast!

Unless you need to say something, turn your microphone to mute (there’s a setting on the platform you are using). Your teacher may mute you, as well. You can always unmute yourself when you have something to say.

What Old Rules? The ones you followed back in the days when you took live classes in person with teachers and other students right there in the room with you!

Make the most of your next knitting or crochet class

There are lots of things you can (still) do to make the most of your classes, whether they are online or in person. Things like check the prerequisites, do your homework, show up on time, and more. Read Twenty Tips to Make the Most of Your Next Knitting or Crochet Class.

Yes, I know you are at home in your comfy chair, with yarn in your hand. You have your favorite beverage nearby and you are ready to settle in to learn something new.

You didn’t have to get a baby sitter or a pet setter. You didn’t have to take a road trip or get on a plane. You didn’t have to get up early, deal with rush hour, find a place to park, locate a classroom in the bowels of a convention center. You didn’t have to pick a place to sit that was close enough to see the teacher but—God forbid!—not in the front row.

But the familiarity of home has a downside. Namely, you aren’t quite as excited to learn as you might be if you had gone to more trouble to get to class. After all, by now you may have attended a Zoom meeting or fifteen, and haven’t found them all that exciting.

Build up the excitement and enthusiasm you’d feel if you were traveling to a new venue. Pretend that’s what you are doing.

Pack a bag with all your class materials, throw in snacks and a water bottle, and put it by the door.

Now take a 15-minute walk in your neighborhood to clear your mind. You need the exercise before you sit before your screen for an hour or more. And if you were at a fiber event, it would probably take you a 15-minute walk to get to your classroom!

When you come back home, pick up your bag, go into the room you have decided to use as your “classroom”. Come a bit early and chat with your fellow students, do a little show-and-tell, and generally settle in before the teacher starts class.

This whole experience of interactive learning online is new to most of us.

stacked stones-be patient in an online class

It’s new to your Instructors. Instructors are learning to use their classroom skills in a new environment. Lesson plans have had to change. We are learning the new technology along with our students while we navigate classroom management, invitations, privacy, screen sharing and other hosting duties at the same time.

It’s new to your fellow students. Along with you, they are learning the ins and outs of muting, camera set-ups, and all the distractions that come from life. All this, while trying to learn whatever it is that the teacher is trying to teach!

Be patient with your teacher, with your fellow students, and most of all with yourself as you adapt to this new way of learning. With practice, we’ll all become more comfortable with interactive online learning in our yarn world.

Next Steps

closeup of hands with crochet in progress from online class

As more in-person events go virtual, it’s a whole new world out there for teachers and students alike. Technology platforms and teaching/learning best practices are changing daily. I’ll try to update this post (and add new ones) as I myself practice and learn more about virtual learning.

The best way to see how live and interactive online knit and crochet classes work for you is to try it!

For more online learning opportunities, check out my Workshop Schedule.

May 29, 2020May 29, 2020

Easy Colorblock Knitted Washcloths (or Dishcloths)

Easy Knitting Colorblock Washcloths-6 designs shown

Whether you use them as dishcloths or as washcloths, knitted squares are a useful and popular project for knitters of all skill levels. Who doesn’t love a beautiful, soft hand-knit cloth to pamper their face, or a cute and sturdy cloth for that thankless chore that is kitchen cleanup?

This collection of six knitted washcloths (or dishcloths) helps you brush up on your knitting skills. Links to video tutorials help you with unfamiliar techniques.

With these patterns, knitting garter stitch was never so rewarding! Relax into the meditative rhythm of all-over knit stitches and enjoy the beauty of color.

Beginning knitters will be comfortable knitting stripes, then progress to knitting on the bias. After that, step up to the joy that is a mitered square. Garter stitch intarsia techniques take you from beginning to intermediate skills in easy steps. There’s no purling needed!

This post contains affiliate links, which help support me but don’t cost you anything extra. Many thanks to Trailhead Yarns, who provided the yarn for this project.

Easy Knitted Colorblock Washcloths by Edie Eckman- rolled up

The free pattern for the easiest cloth, Team Colors, is presented below. Buy a printable downloadable pdf of all six patterns, and knit your cares away.

The Yarn

Use a cotton or cotton-blend fine- or light-weight yarn to make these soft and absorbent projects. The pattern calls for five colors, so this is a perfect time to try out a colorful pack of mini skeins!

Basket of 5 colors of yarn ready to knit

For the cloths pictured I used Trailhead Yarns Appalachian Trail Yarn Crew mini-skeins. Appalachian Trail is 65% cotton, 35% nylon. I used about 108 yds [99 m] each of five colors to complete all six washcloths.

Other knitters who tested the pattern had good success with Cascade Ultra Pima Fine, Ultra Pima DK, or Premier Yarns Cotton Fair.

Finished Dimensions

The finished size will vary based on the yarn and needles you use, and your particular gauge. The washcloths shown measure about 6 3/4″ [17 cm] square.

Size is not crucial in this project, but if you substitute yarns, choose a needle size that results in a fabric that is not too dense and not too loose.

Easy Colorblock Washcloths arranged in a basket

Materials

Fine-weight yarn: approximately 40 yds [36.5 m] each of two colors (Color A & Color B) for the Team Colors cloth below.

US size 2 [3 mm] knitting needles or size to obtain appropriate gauge

Gauge

30 sts and 22 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in garter stitch in fine-weight yarn

See note above about gauge.

Instructions

Team Colors

With Color A, long-tail cast on 50 stitches.

Rows 1-23: Knit. You have 12 garter stitch ridges. Cut A.

Rows 24-75: WIth Color B, knit. You have 26 garter stitch ridges in B, Cut B.

Rows 76-99: With Color A, knit. You have 12 garter stitch ridges in A.

Bind off. Weave in ends.

What’s Next?

Knit: Basics & Beyond offers links to help you improve your knitting skills.

Check out these other easy knitting patterns:

May 8, 2020May 8, 2020

How Many Foundation Chains Do I Need?

Crocheters often wonder how many foundation chains they need to result in their desired number of stitches.

It can be confusing! Sometimes you chain 4 more than the number of stitches you want, but other times you chain just one more. How do you figure out how many foundation chains you need?

I could tell you how many chains you need to get the number of stitches you want on the first row. You could look back to this blog post every time you want to know the answer (see below). That would be awesome for my website traffic, but not so great for helping you learn. I’d rather have you understand how to figure out for yourself how many foundation chains you need.

I’m using American crochet terminology in this article. If you are in the UK, refer to this conversion chart.

What’s on the first row?

The first thing you must know is how many stitches you want on the first row, and what type of stitches they are.

If you are designing your own project, you’ve worked a gauge swatch and done the math to figure out how many stitches you need. If you are following a pattern, you can follow the pattern instructions, or adapt it as needed.

The first stitch of the first row is crucial, because the number of foundation chains depends on the height of the first stitch of the row.

Turning Chains

Crochet stitches are created below the level of the hook. When you start a new row or round, you have to bring the hook up to that new level before working the stitches on the next row.

photo showing turning chain for double crochet — Stitches are created below the level of the crochet hook. A turning chain is the ladder that allows the hook to reach the level of the next row.

Think of the turning chain as a ladder that carries your hook up to that next level. The taller the first stitch of the row, the more steps you need to take on your ladder to reach that height. In other words, you need more turning chains for taller stitches.

The very first turning chain is part of the foundation chain. That means you have to crochet extra chains to incorporate the turning chain.

This first turning chain is created when you insert your hook into the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th (or more) chain from the hook. The skipped chains count as the turning chain.

You also need to know whether you are counting the turning chain as a stitch. In single crochet, the turning chain is usually not counted as a stitch. In half double, double, or treble crochet, the turning chain is often—but not always—counted as a stitch.

Photo showing turning chain and where first single crochet goes into a foundation chain

For more information, read Where to Put the First Stitch of a Crochet Row and How to Prevent Gaps at the Beginning of Crochet Rows.

Table showing number of turning chains for different stitches when the turning chain counts as a stitch and doesn't count as a stitch

Foundation Chains for Single Crochet

Now that you know you need one turning chain for single crochet (sc), and that turning chain is not going to count as a stitch, you can figure out how many chains you need.

Let’s say you want to end up with 10 single crochet stitches on the first row. You need one for each stitch, plus one turning chain, so you need a total of 11 chains to result in ten stitches. I think it’s easier to understand using stitch symbols.

10 sc on first row + 1 turning chain = 11 foundation chains

Crochet symbols for foundation chains and Single crochet row

Foundation Chains for Half Double Crochet

The calculation for half double crochet (hdc) will depend on whether you are using the turning chain as a stitch. When it gets a bit more complicated like this, I often sketch it out on a piece of paper to remind myself how many foundation chains I need. It makes more sense to me when I see it in a visual format like a stitch diagram.

Assume we are using a chain-2 turning chain for this half double crochet. If I want 10 hdc on the first row, and I am not counting the turning chain as a stitch, I need to add 2 chains.

10 hdc on first row + 2 turning chains = 12 foundation chains

Stitch diagram showing foundation chain when turning chain is not used as a hdc

If I want 10 hdc on the first row, and I am counting the turning chain as a stitch, I need to add 1 chain.

10 hdc on first row + 1 turning chain = 11 foundation chains

Stitch diagram showing foundation chain when turning chain is used as a hdc

Foundation Chains for Double Crochet

Double crochet is like half double crochet, in that you have to know how you are treating the turning chain, and how many chains you are using. Assume we are using a 3-chain turning chain for this double crochet.

If I want 10 dc on the first row, and I am not counting a chain-3 turning chain as a stitch, I need to add 3 chains.

10 dc on first row + 3 chains = 13 foundation chains

Stitch diagram showing foundation chain when turning chain is not used as a dc

If I want 10 dc on the first row, and I am counting a chain-3 turning chain as a stitch, I need to add 2 chains.

10 dc on first row + 2 chains = 12 foundation chains

Stitch diagram showing foundation chain when turning chain is used as a dc

Can you work out for yourself how many foundation chains you would need for treble crochet?

This post contains affiliate links which may provide a small income to me if you buy something from this page, but they don’t cost you anything extra.

Learning More

Crochet Answer Book 2nd edition by Edie Eckman cover image — The Crochet Answer Book is a classic pocket reference.

Now you understand the relationship of the foundation chain to turning chains, to the height of stitches, and to whether the turning chain is used as a stitch. And now you can figure out how many foundation chains you need in every situation!

Have more questions? Refer to The Crochet Answer Book. It has answers to questions like these, and all your crochet questions, in a handy format. It’s a compact reference that you can stick in your project bag and have ready at all times, even when you can’t get online.

You can hire me as a consultant or tech editor to help you with all your crochet needs. And I teach online and all around the country, as well!

My YouTube channel is full of video tutorials that offer the “why” as well as the “how” of crochet techniques. Subscribe to it now!

Still wishing you had table for a quick answer? Here it is:

Table showing number of crochet chains to add for different types of stitches in the first row.

May 1, 2020May 5, 2020

Free Crochet Pattern: Easy Little Baskets

Basic crochet skills are all it takes to make these Easy Little Baskets. Looking for a good project for a new crocheter? This is it!

Using just single crochet and small amounts of yarn, you’ll be soon be turning these out by the dozen! They’ll hold your crochet hooks, pencils, paperclips, glasses, keys, or tiny treasures.

Round, Oval, and Square-to-Round shapes can be crocheted with any yarn. It’s a great way to use up odds and ends of yarn you have on hand!

This post contains affiliate links, which don’t cost you anything, but may provide a small income to me.

Instructions for the baskets are given below. You may also purchase a downloadable ad-free pdf of the pattern which includes stitch diagrams for all three baskets.

The Yarn

You can use any medium-weight yarn you have on hand, in any colors you like. Depending on the yarn you use, you’ll be able to get several baskets out of a single skein. Use a smaller hook than you normally would with your chosen yarn, as you want to create a stiff fabric.

For the baskets pictured I used Universal Yarn Yashi, a 100% raffia tape. The raffia fiber is stiffer than regular yarn, but it adds a unique look to the crochet.

Each ball of Yashi has 1.41 oz [40 g], 99 yd [90 m]. I used 1 ball each #106 Hot Green, # 104 Super Pink and #105 Bright Aqua.

Finished Dimensions

Round: 3″ [ 7.5 cm] diameter x 3½” [9 cm] high
Oval: 6″ [15 cm] long x 3¼” [8 cm] wide x 3″ [ 7.5 cm] high
Square-to-Round: 3¾” [9.5 cm] square x 4½ ” [11.5 cm] high

The finished size will vary based on the yarn and hooks you use. Size is not important in this project.

Materials

Worsted Weight Yarn: approximately 200 yds total for all 3 baskets.

US size I-9 [5.5 mm] crochet hook for raffia fiber
US size G [4.25 mm] or H-8 [5 mm] crochet hook for acrylic or wool yarn.

Stitch marker

It’s easy crochet: you’ll use single crochet, double crochet and slip stitch.. There are no seams at all; it’s entirely one piece. Crocheters just beyond the beginner level should find this bag within their ability.

Gauge

12 sc and 16 rnds = 4″ [10 cm] with 5.5 mm hook and raffia yarn
16 sc and 18 rnds = 4″ [10 cm] with 5 mm hook and medium-weight yarn

Gauge is not crucial in this project. However, you should use a hook size that results in a slightly stiff fabric so that the basket holds its shape.

Pattern Notes

This pattern uses American crochet terminology.
Color designations are made as MC (main color) and Contrasting Color (CC) or Contrasting
Color 1 (CC1) and Contrasting Color 2 (CC2), because it really doesn’t matter which colors you use. Use the photos as a guide if you want to copy the colorways shown.
Baskets are worked in unjoined rounds. Leave at least a 4″ [10 cm] tail of yarn in order to have enough yarn to weave in ends securely.

Abbreviations

CC, CC1, CC2: contrasting color, contrasting color 1, contrasting color 2
ch: chain
MC: main color
pm: place marker
rep: repeat
rnd(s): round(s)
RS: right side
sc: single crochet
sc2tog (single crochet 2 together): [insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop] 2 times, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook
st(s): stitch(es)

Round Basket

Easy Little Crochet Basket Round, bottom view

With MC, ch 4, join with slip st to form a ring.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 6 sc in ring—6 sc. Pm in first st to indicate beginning of rnd and move marker up as you work each rnd.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in each st around—12 sc.

Rnd 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around—18 sc.

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] around—24 sc.

Rnd 5: Sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around—30 sc.

Rnd 6: Sc in back loop only of each st around—30 sc.

Rnds 7-16: Sc in each st around, changing to CC on last st of Rnd 16. Cut MC.

Rnds 17-18: With CC, sc in each st around.

Slip st in next st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Oval Basket

Easy Little Crochet Basket Oval, bottom view

Ch 9.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch; continuing across the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 6 ch, 2 sc in last ch; do not join—18 sc.
Pm in first st to indicate beginning of rnd and move marker up as you work each rnd.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc—24 sc.

Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 2 times—30 sc.

Rnd 4: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sc] 2 times—36 sc.

Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 2 times—42 sc.

Rnd 6: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sc] 2 times—48 sc.

Rnd 7: Sc in back loop of each sc around—48 sc.

Rnds 8-16: Sc in each st around, changing to CC on last st of Rnd 16.
Cut MC.

Rnds 17-18: With CC, sc in each st around.

Slip st in next st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Square-to-Round Basket

With MC, ch 4, join with slip st to form a ring.

Easy Little Crochet Basket Square to Round, bottom view

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 8 sc in ring; do not join—12 sc.
Pm in first st to indicate beginning of rnd and move marker up as you work each rnd.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—16 sc.

Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—24 sc.

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—32 sc.

Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 7 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—40 sc.

Rnd 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 9 sc, [3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc] around, sc in same st as first sc—48 sc.

Rnd 7: Sc in back loop only of each st around—48 sc.

Rnds 8-15: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 16: [Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc] around—44 sc.

Rnds 17-19: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 20: [Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc] around—40 sc.

Rnd 21: Sc in each sc to last st; on last st, change to CC1. Cut MC.

Rnd 22: With CC1, sc in each sc around.

Rnd 23: Sc in each sc to last st; on last st, change to CC2. Cut CC1.

Rnd 24: With CC2, sc in each sc around.

Slip st in next st.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

What’s Next?

Looking for more ways to up your crochet game? Check out Crochet: Basics & Beyond.